Karl Lagerfeld famously said: "I am like a computer, plugged into Chanel mode." This remark, made over 40 years ago, feels more relevant than ever today: man as an extension of the computer, and a fashion brand's heritage as a collection of data, ready for processing.

The Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2025 collection presents a series of extremely diverse variations on a single outfit: a beige trench, a white shirt, and blue pair of pants. While paying homage to couture's traditions and history, the collection forms a whimsical, human clin d'œil to the boundless possibilities of Artificial Intelligence.

The deliberately divergent image of this collection (long; short; day; night; crumpled; pristine; minimal; baroque, etc.) is unified by its use of a single fabric: silk gazar from Ruffo Coli. This choice nods to Viktor&Rolf's Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1999 ‘Blacklight’ collection, crafted entirely from the final rolls of silk gazar developed by Balenciaga in collaboration with the now-defunct Swiss producer Abraham.

The collection proposes multiple variations on Viktor&Rolf's house codes of ruffles and bows in a style that is baroque and boldly decorative, yet severe and minimal. The presentation itself playfully subverts the codes of a couture show, with an AI ladyspeaker announcing each exit, like couture prompts.

The collection is meticulously crafted from luxurious Italian silk gazar, sourced from Ruffo Coli—an esteemed family-run business and a cornerstone of the renowned Como silk and textile district. With 900 meters of fabric transformed through a range of intricate techniques, the collection unfolds across 24 looks. Models grace the runway in custom brown satin heels and flats by Christian Louboutin, each look further elevated by vintage jewelry curated by Droomfabriek Amsterdam.